A Haven in the Marche: The Second New Zealand Division in reserve (autumn-winter 1944-1945)

La Seconda Divisione Neozelandese in riserva nelle Marche (autunno-inverno 1944-1945)

Dopo appena un mese al fronte dell’Emilia-Romagna, in quell’autunno di fango e piogge del 1944, la Seconda Divisione Neozelandese fu ritirata e mandata in riserva. Lasciò il f. Savio il 22 ottobre per tornare a Rimini e riscendere la costa adriatica, fino alla remota val d’Esino nelle Marche, dove sarebbe rimasta per un intero mese.

Questo primo periodo in riserva fu di riorganizzazione della Divisione neozelandese, e dell’addestramento delle nuove truppe. Molte di queste provennero dalla 3^ Divisione (recentemente smobilitata) che aveva servito nel Pacifico contro i Giapponesi. Non potendo più mantenere entrambe le Divisioni, il Governo neozelandese aveva ceduto alla pressione di Churchill di mantenere quella in Europa. Così, le truppe non destinate al rientro in patria, vennero spedite in Italia a rinforzare la 2^ Divisione.

Le varie unità della Divisione si distribuirono nella valle, attorno ai paesi di Matelica, Castelraimondo e Camerino e altre località minori, ma anche a Fabriano, e nell’attigua Val di Chienti. Il tempo fu diviso fra dure esercitazioni e svaghi. Lontane dal fronte, le truppe potevano anche riposarsi e rilassarsi. Alloggiati per lo più presso famiglie italiane, gli uomini avevano anche un’ottima occasione per fraternizzare con le popolazioni locali. Potevano osservare e partecipare alla vita quotidiana, condividendone i pasti ed i costumi. Viceversa, gli abitanti potevano osservare le abitudini dei giovani soldati, che trovavano stranamente ‘domesticati’ e disponibili ad aiutare anche in casa. I paesani italiani conobbero così dei giovani che non soltanto amavano uno strano gioco chiamato rugby e scalavano le montagne, ma anche sapevano riconoscere diverse sementi e razze di animali.

La convivenza in spazi stretti portò velocemente alla conoscenza reciproca ed alla formazione di vere e proprie amicizie. Quest’esperienza di vita ‘normale’ in un ambiente gradevole e quasi interamente scampato alla guerra, insieme al calore della gente e al ritmo della vita contadina, sollevò enormemente il morale degli uomini. Anche le notizie che arrivavano dal fronte furono incoraggianti: il 9 novembre, l’Ottava Armata britannica aveva raggiunto Forlì sulla SS 9, a 64 chilometri da Bologna e poco tempo dopo delle truppe britanniche e canadesi erano avanzate fino al f. Lamone, davanti a Faenza. Era qui che sarebbero rientrati in azione i Neozelandesi.

Il 23 novembre 1944, gli uomini della Divisione salutarono gli abitanti loro ospiti per iniziare il viaggio di ritorno al fronte. Il loro primo compito fu di costruire un accesso al f. Lamone per permettere la liberazione di Faenza. 

Dopo 3 durissimi mesi invernali al fronte, che si era fermato sul f. Senio appena oltre Faenza, la Divisione tornò in questa tranquilla vallata, per l’ultimo periodo di riposo prima delle battaglie finali. Fu un tempo di esercitazioni intense, ma anche di divertimento e, soprattutto, fu l’occasione per rinnovare le vecchie conoscenze. Ciò che amavano di più era condividere la vita di famiglia con le popolazioni locali che dimostrarono loro generosità e affetto. Alla seconda partenza, il 30 marzo del 1945, ci fu molta commozione da entrambe le parti. La gente di questa zona sarebbe rimasta per sempre nel cuore degli uomini della Divisione.

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Men of 21 Battalion with Italian children at Muccia (Ref. WH2-21BaP036a)

During the long, bleak winter of 1944-45 the 2nd New Zealand Division was twice sent into reserve deep in the Marche region of central Italy. The soldiers spent a total of two months in this secreted corner of Italy, far from the front, and the scars of war, mixing with the local people of small villages and briefly sharing their simple lives. The experience was to all accounts positive. Though training, duties and hard physical exercise were always part of their programme, these periods in reserve were fundamentally a time for rest, when they could savour civilian life, enjoy sport and entertainment. They were also times when the Kiwis could observe Italian civilians, improve their knowledge of the language and culture, and build strong personal relationships.   

The Esino valley and the main locations of the Division

From the front in Emilia Romagna, they journeyed back to Rimini and then down the Adriatic coast to Fano, before turning west along Route 76 which follows the lower reaches of the Esino River. Some were billeted in or near Fabriano, the others were spread out up the river valley in the towns of Castelraimondo, Matelica and Camerino and the outlying villages. Yet others were billeted in the neighbouring Val di Chienti, at Serravalle and Muccia. These quiet backwaters of peace and tranquillity must have seemed like another planet, not unlike the one they had left months, or years, earlier. In the unheard-of small towns and villages of the valley of the Esino River, framed by hills and the never too distant mountains, the soldiers found an environment they understood and recognized. The rugged, rural landscape, with its rich farmland and small agricultural centres, reminded the soldiers of home. 

“No one had ever heard of Matelica, of Fabriano, of Castelraimondo or San Severino... They were typical backwater «sleepy hollows» ... Yet these places will be remembered with undiluted affection by men of the Division” - Army Board (1946), One More River.

The first rest period (22 October-23 November 1944) was a time for a major reorganization of the New Zealand forces and the introduction of much needed reinforcements, many of whom came from the disbanded 3rd Division which had been serving in the Pacific in the war against Japan. It was a time for training and breaking in the new recruits but also for rest and relaxation, and an excellent opportunity for fraternizing with the friendly locals.

During their month-long stay there, the soldiers were subjected to a kind of full immersion in Italian country life. For the first time, really, they were exposed to the ordinary people, and the Italian way of life. A new understanding of the one-time enemy was reached, and initial diffidence, if not downright distrust, was soon replaced by mutual respect. In a month, friendships were formed. Merit goes to both sides for this startling turnaround. The Italians had opened their homes and their hearts to the friendly, generous, practical, DIY Kiwi. These new relationships would be sealed in the spring of 1945, when the Division returned for another month.

The soldiers learnt to live in families again, to do normal things like help in the house or in the fields, go to market or to church with their new friends, entertain one another, eat at a family table, and share generally in everyday civilian life. Best of all, there was no sight or sound of war. “As a rest area, apart from the weather, the Apennines south of Fabriano approached perfection. Gunners who had lived for a year or more in Italy in the midst of battle or in its wake had become accustomed to the entrails of towns rather than their living hearts. Here they found towns and villages miraculously untouched by high-explosive violence and uncorrupted by waves of soldiers and the jetsam they leave behind. After an hour or two of cautious appraisal from both sides the gunners and their hosts and hostesses began to turn their compulsory acquaintance into many a voluntary friendship. With the little children it was, as always, a case of love at first sight. Except for the most persistent tipplers, the raw wine was put aside in favour of more mellow vintages.” (W.E. Murphy. 2nd New Zealand Divisional Artillery).

Even the smallest village had its charm for the young Kiwi soldiers as they observed the women chattering on their doorsteps while they knitted or mended, the young girls at the communal washing place, the old men playing cards in the village squares, or families taking an evening stroll. Curiosity and the desire to trade with the newcomers soon overcame the initial shyness of the villagers. Empathy with the children was quickly established as they boldly introduced themselves and used the soldiers’ first names, breaking down all barriers of awkwardness. When the Kiwis ran out of their limited Italian vocabulary, and universal sign language failed, the children would step in, with games, singing and dancing. 

Piazza del Municipio, Matelica

The men of 18 Armoured Regiment, billeted in Fabriano, described comfortable living conditions, with electricity and running water, and a friendly and highly collaborative civilian population,  which made  their stay decidedly pleasant. Their diarist recounted “the strange, spontaneous bond of sympathy that grew up between the unit and the local people. Here, as nowhere else, the Kiwis were star guests, went freely into civilian homes for meals and parties and singsongs, and had the best china and silver brought out in their honour. The war had skimmed past these mountains without leaving its trail of wreckage behind, so that the civilians could still look with a kindly eye on foreign soldiers.” (William Denham Dawson, 18 Battalion and Armoured Regiment)

In the even smaller farming centre of Castelraimondo, the men of 26 Battalion - though allocated an unfinished Italian barracks and not in billets – still managed to build good relations with the inhabitants. “The villagers were very friendly; at all times they welcomed the troops into their homes, giving freely of their hospitality. The troops reciprocated by sharing with them their cigarettes, chocolate, and foodstuffs.” (Frazer D. Norton, 26 Battalion).  Road conditions were too poor to allow many evening visits to other towns and Castelraimondo had few amenities. The long winter evenings were mostly filled with card games, discussions, quizzes and cinema. Castelraimondo had one advantage over the other towns, however:  a piece of level ground suitable for playing football. This was a spare-time activity the troops fell to in all weather and ‘Freyberg Cup’ matches were quickly underway!

A pleasant outlook from Castelraimondo

The town of Camerino, high on a ridge between two valleys, commanding wonderful panoramas of the surrounding countryside, was an agricultural centre, and an interesting place for the men of 5th Brigade. “The peasantry appeared to own or at least to have a definite stake in the land they worked. Friday was market day and carts converged on Camerino from all directions. Car-minded Kiwis looked with interest on the donkey, bullock and cow-drawn vehicles laden high with produce, and ex-farmers studied the tall thin stacks of wheat built around poles and the winter quarters of the livestock. Others cast speculative eyes on the hordes of hens, ducks, turkeys, geese and pigs roaming at will around the farms and along the village street. It was a nice spot.” J.F. Cody, 21 Battalion

With characteristic humour the Maori Battalion historian describes and how the women of Camerino, horrified at the way the men treated their clothes, quickly assumed the job of laundering, filling their clothes-lines with an extraordinary array of male clothing. There were other advantages to be had, too. Route-marching, for example, could be extremely surprisingly pleasurable: “Marching on the road one encounters strange things, such as an old broken-down Italian vehicle loaded up with all sorts of odds and ends, and then again it may be a pretty Italian signorina leading or following behind two or more bullocks. This … makes route-marching very interesting and one is always looking forward to the next corner to see what is happening or has happened.” (J.F. Cody, 28 (Māori) Battalion)

Market day in Camerino 

A child of the war years

 

The men of Divisional Cavalry, billeted in small villages around San Severino Marche, a short distance to the east of Castelraimondo, found their peaceful agricultural environment highly congenial, though it was hard to convince the Italians that they had other skills besides soldiering. They were not expected, for example, to understand farming, which of course, many New Zealand soldiers did, observing with curiosity the traditions of the Italian peasants. It is not surprising that they adapted easily to the simple, rural life of the valley.

On 23 November the Division bade farewell to their hosts and began the journey north to rejoin the front. The Division’s first task would be to prepare the way to Lamone River to allow the liberation of Faenza. They were sorry to leave their Italian friends, and apprehensive about what lay ahead. The civilians, it seems, were equally sorry to see them go. “The troops packed up that night [23 November] and were ready for an early move in the morning. It was nearly as bad as leaving home after final leave—red-eyed women and children gathered round the trucks, while the men of both races spoke a little gruffly, no doubt owing to the cold, wet mountain air.” Joseph F, Cody, 21 Battalion

Just three months later, the Division was again withdrawn from the front in Emilia Romagna and put back into reserve (24 February - 30 March 1945). During this time they would receive much-needed replacements and prepare for the spring attack. There was no illusion that this would be a holiday. The good news was that were returning to the friendly peaceful valley of the Esino River, and mostly to the same billets.

In fact, it was a busy time of hard training, much of which was devoted to river crossings and techniques to be used in the coming battles. There were also route marches and climbing, weapon training, night manoeuvres, working with tanks and even live shoots. The men had no doubt that what they were practising in March they would perform in April.

This intensive programme left less time for organized entertainment, although some cinema, concerts and dances were available. It was also a time to renew old acquaintances, to play more matches, climb the mountains, and enjoy the first glimmerings of spring. Their best recreation, however, was sharing family life with the hospitable local people, whose generosity and affection testified to the good behaviour of the troops. When the Division left for the front again, there were many tearful farewells. It was Good Friday, 20 March 1945. In Matelica, the streets were crowded for the traditional Easter procession and the bells pealed. Meanwhile, Hitler’s Reich was collapsing on all sides, and everyone knew that end of the war in Europe was imminent.

New Zealand soldiers form a Guard of Honour at a partisan funeral in Matelica
(Ref.  DA-07728-F)